Spa
Life

Have the Conversation
by Kate James, Life Coach

One thing I've learned in all the years of exploring personal development is that communication is everything. It intrigues me that whilst knowing this, there are still times I'm reluctant to have the difficult conversations - even though intellectually I'm aware that such a conversation will bring me closer to the person I need to speak with.

As someone pointed out to me recently, we generally take the path of the least pain in life. We want our relationships to be harmonious and conflict free. But sometimes what appears to be the least painful option in the short term is the very thing that will cause us (and others) the most pain in the future.

A perfect example of this is the way that we avoid those difficult conversations. None of us finds it easy to open up when there's a degree of underlying tension in a relationship but dancing around the edges of truth leaves no one feeling satisfied.

Many of my male clients tell me that this is a particularly challenging issue for them. They find themselves avoiding the truth with their partner, boss or even their customers.

It's interesting what you tell yourself when you're avoiding communication...that the other person won't be able to handle hearing what you have to say or that you want to protect them from hurt. When you look more deeply, you're able to also see that both of you are probably less able to handle the loss of intimacy that will come from keeping away from the truth.

Every relationship will have its moments of difficulty. The depth of connection you're able to reach with another person is very much dependent on how willing you are to be open, authentic and honest in your communication. If there's someone in your life you've lost a bond with, someone you'd like to be closer to - have the conversation.

• Before you have a difficult conversation, be clear about the most important point or points you want to get across. Don't try to tackle too many things at once.
• Choose the right time to have your discussion. Avoid situations where alcohol is involved and where either person is overly tired or emotional.
• Consider how you can say what you need to say without making the other person wrong.
• Allow time for the other person to absorb what you have to say and then be willing to listen to their perspective.
• Be willing to admit where you are wrong.
• As well as having the difficult conversations, have the light and loving ones as well.

Spa
Cafe

Eating for Health
by Lindy Cook,Naturopath, Nutritionist, Herbalist

We all know most men would rather sit down and discuss the footy scores any day than discuss the state of their health. Statistics tell us that women seek out alternative therapies and preventative medicine in far greater numbers than men. So, it is probably a great time to debunk a few myths about preventative health care for men and hopefully encourage a few of you out there to embrace natural therapies. You don't need to be a tofu eating vegetarian to be healthy! It's not hard to apply a few simple life style strategies to help prevent many of the chronic diseases facing men today.

Cardiovascular Disease
For men, the risk of cardiovascular disease, heart attack and stroke will increase with every decade. There are many known risk factors that increase their likelihood. High cholesterol and high blood pressure are both considered risk factors, along with being a smoker, a family history of strokes/heart attacks, and a waist circumference of over 90cm. A measurement of over 102cm puts you at even greater risk. While abdominal obesity (central obesity with excess body fat storage around the middle) is considered a strong predictor of developing diabetes type 2, waist-hip ratio is now shown to be the more accurate predictor of cardiovascular disease. That is, a big waist with comparably big hips does not seem to be as of concern as a big waist without big hips. So, don't just sit back, be brave and get that tape measure out. See what your abdominal mass and waist/hip ratio is telling you!

Cholesterol
Chronically elevated levels of cholesterol have long been associated with athlerosclerosis, or a build up of plaque on the artery wall and there is associated inflammation and free radical damage. High cholesterol is therefore considered a contributing factor to high blood pressure, heart attack and stroke. The only way to determine whether or not you have high cholesterol is through a blood test and just because you can't see of feel high cholesterol does not mean you should ignore it! The good news is lowering your cholesterol isn't too hard when you know how. Dietary changes and taking the odd supplement can really have a positive impact.

• Increase your intake of essential fatty acids Start with cutting out those 'bad' fats or saturated fats such as cheese, butter, cream, salami and bacon. Always trim fat from red meat. Meanwhile, emphasise those omega 3 fatty acid rich foods that lower cholesterol and bring up the good HDL fats (these transport cholesterol from the cell) while lowering the LDL fats (these transport cholesterol into the cell and encourage their deposit into the arteries). Include oily fish in your diet at least 3 times per week. It's easier than you think if you include sardines, salmon or tuna with your lunch. Salmon, trevally, sardines, tuna, blue grenadier, butter fish and cod all contain good amounts of these oils. Add a tablespoon of flaxseed oil (high in 'good oils') to your cereal. Snack on walnuts, macadamias and reduce your read meat consumption.
• Soluble fibres like psylium, rice bran, legumes and fruit pectin all bind to cholesterol and help carry it from your body.
• Newer supplements used in the fight to lower cholesterol include phytosterols (which inhibit the absorption of cholesterol) and red yeast rice. Both are available as supplements from your local health food shop.
• Garlic is extremely effective in its ability to lower cholesterol and triglycerides. Cook with it regularly and include it as a supplement if your triglyceride levels are high.
• Co-enzyme Q10 reduces cholesterol and blood pressure. Cholesterol lowering statin drugs reduce co-enzyme Q10 so it is even more critical for anyone taking this class of drug to supplement. A recommended dose is around 100 iu daily.

High Blood Pressure (Hypertension)
Like high cholesterol, high blood pressure is generally symptomless and its diagnosis can leave you feeling quite shocked. Symptoms that experienced are often vague such as ringing in the ears, headache, a feeling of fullness in the head, fatigue and irritability. An average blood pressure reading is considered to be 120/80, with slight increases over every decade beyond the age of 40 years. While medication is inevitable if your blood pressure remains escalated for an extended period there is much you can do to both prevent and reduce its levels.

• Weight loss is critical if you are going to lower your blood pressure because the larger your body is, the further your blood has to travel and the more pressure you place on your heart.
• Magnesium is a key nutrient used to support cardiac function, lowering blood pressure due to its vasodilatory action while also acting as a calcium channel regulatory (like many of the drugs used to lower blood pressure). It is often used in conjunction with such nutrients as the amino acid taurine, co-enzyme Q10 and lipoic acid. All of these supplements are of great value in the treatment of hypertension.
• A high potassium intake can be very effective in lowering blood pressure. Increase potassium rich foods like vegetables, apricots, avocado, banana, citrus fruits, nuts (almonds, cashews and pecans) and sunflower seeds. Try using a potassium based salt with your food, these are available at your local health food shop.
• Decrease salt and sugar intake. A low glycaemic index diet is of real importance here. High sugar can raise blood pressure and it is a good idea to have your blood sugar levels checked as it is often elevated in those with hypertension. Too much salt in the diet has the unfortunate action of adhering to the artery walls.
• Bioflavonoid rich foods actually strengthen the artery walls and their antioxidant action can reduce the damage caused by plaque build up on the artery walls. Blueberries, cherries and cranberries are all delicious. Luckily for us dark chocolate also has a wonderful anti-oxidant action so you can now also enjoy the occasional guilt free indulgence (always look out for the organic, fair trade option). Alfalfa helps remove plaque from the artery wall so include with your salads or salad sandwiches.
• Cook with plenty of garlic, onions, olive oil and ginger to help stop the blood being 'sticky', predisposing us to blood clots and raising blood pressure. You need to eat about four cloves of garlic per day to have a marked effect on blood pressure. This may just be a bit too smelly for most people (and those around them!) but it can be purchased in an odourless supplement form.

Prevention of Cardiovascular Disease
You can't really treat cardiovascular disease effectively without understanding what other underlying mechanisms are occurring. Pathology testing is critical if one is to really access preventative medicine. These give an enormous amount of information about the potential for heart attack and stroke. Tests to be considered, along with the standard lipid studies to assess cholesterol levels include homocysteine, C-Reactive protein and vitamin D levels. Your naturopath or GP can organise these tests.

• Homocysteine is an amino acid formed from the metabolism of methionine. High dietary intake of methionine, found in meats and dairy products, can result in an over production of homocysteine. High levels of homocysteine are recognised as a significant risk factor for cardiovascular disease including atherosclerosis, coronary artery disease, cerebrovascular disease and heart attack. Supplementing with folic acid, vitamins B6, B12 and 'methylating factors' like cysteine and taurine help reduce homocysteine, along with drinking plenty of green tea and cutting down your coffee intake.
• C-Reactive protein levels is an inflammatory marker that accurately predicts the potential towards cardiovascular infarction, particularly when found with high levels of LDL cholesterol. As would seem obvious, anti-inflammatory supplements such as fish oils, vitamin C and vitamin E can reduce elevated levels.
• Recent studies have found that low vitamin D levels are also associated with cardiovascular disease. Have your levels assessed as they tend to drop over the grey winter months because we need sunshine to activate its production.

Exercise and Cardiovascular Disease
Everyone knows exercise is good for you - it helps reduce body fat and improves cardiovascular health. Compared with active people, sedentary men quadruple their risk of dying from cardiovascular disease. The real questions in terms of exercise and cardiovascular disease and its prevention concerns type and frequency. Exercise is designed to put a mild stress on the body so it can recover and become stronger. Effective exercise means you should find yourself puffing once finished and have some difficulty talking. While walking is a great exercise it may not be enough to remove deposits of fat or reverse atherosclerosis. Reducing body fat is one of the best treatments for heart disease and resistance exercise is probably is a great way to achieve this. Unlike aerobic exercise, fat burning continues after the exercise stops so it increases your basal metabolic rate. Try combining chin ups, squats, bench press and abdominal work out. Two sets of ten should achieve the desired results. The optimal time for you to exercise is first thing in the morning, before any calories are consumed. When blood sugar is low, the body is forced to recruit calories from fat cells, resulting in a loss of body fat. Drink plenty of water to ensure proper hydration during an exercise period. Aim for about 30 minutes exercise session five to seven times per week and ensure you feel puffed at the end of it. As always, make sure your personal trainer or local gym instructor plans your exercise program for you.

Prostate Health
The prostate is a small gland about the size of a walnut located near the bladder. Men over the age of 45 years often experience symptoms of benign prostatic hyperplasia or prostate enlargement...the older you get, the more likely you are to experience it. Prostate enlargement occurs in approximately half of all men aged over 50 years and ¾ of all men in their seventies! This is largely due to an increase in the production of dihydroxytestosterone - a more potent form of testosterone - that encourages an overgrowth of prostatic cells. Elevated estrogens may also be an underlying cause. The symptoms of prostate enlargement and disease include pain, burning and difficulty in stopping and starting urination, urinary frequency that may involve getting up a number of times during the night to urinate can also occur. Preventative treatment focuses on reducing the levels of this hormone while supporting the function and integrity of the prostate gland. Foods and supplements that have this action include:

• zinc is the single most important treatment for prostate enlargement. Dietary and supplemental zinc reduces the size of the prostate and associated symptoms by downgrading the potent form of testosterone rendering it much less harmful. Supplement with high doses of zinc and snack on meats, liver, eggs, seafood (esp. oysters), grains, seeds and wheat germ. Excessive alcohol intake will decrease your zinc status while vitamin B6 is required for zinc to be absorbed effectively.
• raw pumpkin flower seeds - snack on a handful of these nutrient rich gems, high in zinc and essential fatty acids daily. Try adding some pumpkin seed oil to your salads.
• essential fatty acids are a large constituent of the prostate gland and support its integrity. EFA's stimulate the production of prostaglandins that compete with and therefore reduce levels of testosterone. Add flaxseed oil to your cereals, eat a minimum of three serves per week of oily fish and snack on walnuts and macadamias.
• lycopene is an antioxidant found in tomatoes that seems to have a particular affinity for the prostate gland and enhancing it's function. Eat plenty of tomatoes every day; tomato sauce (the highest source of lycopene - home made please), tomato paste, tinned tomatoes, fresh tomatoes. They are all good! Lycopene also lowers C-Reactive protein levels.
• numerous herbs can down grade the action of dihydroxytestosterone while exerting an anti-inflammatory action on the prostate. Saw palmetto (prevents the conversion of testosterone to it's more potent form), pygeum (anti-inflammatory), panax ginseng (decreases prostate size and increases zinc absorption), nettle and epilobium all have a strong traditional and clinical use in the treatment of prostatic enlargement.

So, what is men's health really about? It is about actually taking control of your health and not just letting it happen to you, as if you are a bit player in the game of life. Harness your competitive energy and use it to be proactive about your diet and lifestyle while learning to deal with stress in positive ways. The points that recur again and again seem to be to increase your essential fatty acids, keep your alcohol intake moderate, exercise regularly and get your body mass index and abdominal mass down! Of course, throw in plenty of fresh fruit and vegetables while eating a primarily low glycaemic index diet. And remember, don't put it off until tomorrow. The best time to begin is now.

Spa
Body

All about Men's skin
by Sam Pope, Spa Therapist Trainer

With the advent of the metrosexual revolution, men and product companies are taking more interest in men's personal care than ever before. The days of taking a scoop of moisturiser from your partner's stash of beauty products are over with the introduction of skin care products and regimes aimed at addressing men's unique skin care concerns.

Understanding how men's skin differs from women is critical in the fight against anti aging for men. Listed below are what we consider to be the basics of how to keep men's skin looking good and feeling great, all year round;

Some basic facts:

• Mens sebaceous glands are smaller than those found on women's skin. Absorption of active skin care products is through these glands. Due to hormone differences men produce more oil. Testosterone is responsible for increases in oil production whilst oestrogen in females has less of an influence over oil production. Higher oil production in men's skin means that the skin is more susceptible to acne related problems and other blemishes. Therefore, men's skin care products need to take this into account in order to function effectively. This is why you'll find that a good quality men's moisturiser is generally a more fluid consistency than a women's moisturiser.
• Men's skin may also benefit from using a more concentrated skin care product to help penetrate the dermis to work more effectively.
• Men's skin is thicker than women's, which means that women are more vulnerable to damage of the skin caused by the sun's UVA rays and is one of the principle reasons why female skin suffers more from sun aging.
• Men's skin is generally more fragile due to the less time men tend to spend on skin care. They are more prone to being exposed to the elements either through their work or their recreational activities. Daily shaving breaks down the skin's natural protective film leaving it more prone to sensitivity and irritation.

As skin ages, its properties change. A mans skin gradually becomes thinner with age (about 1% per year). A woman's skin is more likely to change colour and texture with age because it is more sensitive to sun damage and because of the decline in oestrogen production after menopause. Oestrogen maintains the bony framework beneath the skin, keeps it soft, resilient and healthy. Prior to menopause, women's skin thickness remains fairly constant.

The amount of collagen in the skin decreases to a greater extent in women than in men as individuals get older. This is also a main reason why women, who have similar historical sun exposure to men, appear older than men of the same age.

SKINCARE TIPS FOR MEN

1. Determine your skin type so that you're purchasing products that address your individual skin concerns:

   It is best to receive a thorough skin analysis by a qualified beauty therapist to accurately determine your skin type. However, there are some basic guidelines to get you started to understanding your skin. Once you have verified your skin type you have the basic tools required to target main concerns and treat your skin accordingly.

   Dry Skin

   • Skin feels tight & dry
   • No oily T zone
   • Shows signs of photo-ageing and wrinkles
   • Skin may feel flaky or rough
   • Skin tends to be thin and appears dull

   Normal/Dry Skin

   • Cheeks are dry and skin sometimes feels tight
   • Minimal oily t-zone, usually on nose only
   • Skin gets dehydrated
   • Small blackheads are visible on nose & chin

   Normal/Oily Skin

   • Cheeks may be oily or dry
   • T-zone gets oily by the end of the day
   • Skin is dehydrated with some dead skin build up
   • Small blackheads in t-zone
   • Occasional breakouts

   Oily Skin

   • Cheeks or face are oily with open pores
   • T-zone gets oily within hours after cleansing
   • Bumps under the surface of the skin with dead skin build up
   • Visible blackheads
   • Frequent breakouts
   • Skin tends to be thicker

   Acne/Problem Skin

   • Face is oily soon after cleansing
   • Could be a mature skin that was once oily
   • Visible blackheads, whiteheads and open pores
   • There may be inflammatory lesions and scarring
   • Problems may also occur on the neck, back or chest
   • Skin may get red

   Sensitive

   • Has trouble with environmental factors
   • Skin reacts to sun, temperature extremes, cosmetics, perfumes etc
   • May experience rashes, burning sensations and be easily irritated
   • Has permanent diffused redness particularly on nose, chin & cheeks
   • Skin tends to be thin and may scar easily
   • Shows signs of ageing
   • Can be congested and blemished
   
    
2. Be mindful of your daily intake of Alcohol, Cigarettes and Caffeine
   Dark circles are caused by broken blood vessels under the thin skin of the eye area. In most cases it is hereditary. However, it is often accelerated by alcohol, cigarettes, dehydration, caffeine & sleep depravation. To keep eyes looking their brightest best ensure you're drinking a minimum of 1.5 litres of water per day, minimise your caffeine and alcohol intake and try to get better quality sleep. Using a topical skin product such as an eye cream can help to refresh the skin around the eyes and assist with stimulating microcirculation. If the problem is new and ongoing you may have a problem with iron deficiency in which case it is best to see your naturopath or health care professional.
    
3. Avoid Alcohol based shaving products
   It is worth spending the money on a great shaving product - after all, depending on the speed of hair growth it is used almost daily. You need a product that will nourish & hydrate your skin. A moisturising shaving mask is ideal, or alternatively you can try using a good quality foaming facial cleanser as your shaving medium. Spend a little extra time massaging the product into your skin to soften the hair. Avoid alcohol based products - they dry and damage the skin.
    
4. Deep cleanse every day to keep Blackheads at bay
   A blackhead is a mass of dry dead skin and sebaceous material formed when the opening of a hair follicle becomes wider than normal. Because the follicle opening is wider, the sebum (sebaceous glands produce a substance called sebum, which is responsible for keeping the skin and hair moisturised) and the sloughed off dead skin cells react chemically with the air, resulting in the oxidation of melanin, which in turn causes the dark coloration of the blackhead. Left untreated, the clogged pore can become infected which can lead to acne.
    
5. Make a regular date with a Beauty Therapist
   An appointment with your beauty therapist is the best and most effective way of targeting blackheads quickly. They will remove a lot of the stubborn deep pore dirt and oil using steam and extractions. Once the blackheads have been removed, keep on top of your skin care by using a deep cleansing pore wash that is specific for men on a daily basis. A cleansing or purifying mask with a clay base could also be your saving grace. Applied all over once a week, or even used as a spot treatment to target blemishes, a purifying mask is indispensable.
    

By following some of these simple steps you can help keep your skin clean and your sebaceous glands under control, ensuring you always put your best face forward.

Eco
Spa

Reduce your carbon emissions at work

Did you know that travel between cities for a meeting or conference is one of the most damaging things you can do for the environment apart from lighting a bushfire? Studies have shown that air travel produces about as much carbon dioxide as each passenger would by driving their own car the same distance. In addition, aircraft emissons have a greenhouse effect three times greater than road vehicle emissions because they are released high in the atmosphere.

A return trip to Europe for one contributes more to global warming than an average Australian's emissions from all other sources across one year; the same distance in multiple short haul flights produces even more due to the greater amount of fuel burnt during take offs and landings.

For most Australian's working in a business or office environment the task of reducing your environmental impact can seem all too laborious.

A face-to-face arrangement is indispensable for your first meeting with an important client, trying to close a significant deal, asking an investor for money or signing a contract. However, there are many other occasions in business that face communication is not necessary. In the digital age the options and availablilty of teleconferencing, web conferencing or video conferencing can be just as effective and cost a fraction of the time, money & energy as opposed to a face meeting.

The technology to enable virtual meetings is no longer unfamiliar or costly; in fact it can be free.

Anyone that has an internet connection can get all the information they need on how to get started. Try e-strategyguide.gov.au, a useful guide designed for non profit organisations but equally useful for others as well.

However, if air travel is essential to getting your job done you can choose to fly with an airline that supports carbon offsetting. Virgin Blue is only one of many airlines now aiming towards carbon neutral air travel. As a passenger, you have the option at the time of booking to purchase carbon credits that are calculated based upon your chosen journey. The carbon credits are then used toward projects such as replanting trees and forests.

It's one of the very simple things that we, as consumers, can do to help protect our precious planet.

For more information go to virginblue.com.au/carbonoffset

Spa
Events

Introducing Darphin at Aurora

In celebration of the season of new beginnings, we are very excited to introduce Darphin skin care and Darphin facials at Aurora Spa Retreat.

Darphin skin care delivers true lifetime beauty through delightful, effective, and custom-targeted formulas, blending the best of science and nature, for extraordinary feeling, extraordinary results.

The Darphin philosophy

A beauty legacy based on aromatic science, pleasure and custom formulations.

The virtues of AROMATHERAPY

Combining cosmetic and dermatological innovation with aromatherapy, every product features select extracts and essences of the finest aromatic plants.

Furthermore, Darphin's beauty protocol features unique Aromatic Care formulas that contain inhalant blends of aromatic essences in their purest state. Used in custom precision blends, these beneficial aromatic extractions and essential oils help stimulate the senses, transform the body and evoke a feeling of overall beauty and well-being.

The power of PLEASURE

Because Darphin believes that "feeling beautiful" and "looking beautiful" are inextricably bound, every product is designed to delight on contact with delectable, pampering texture and uplifting fragrance that stimulate your feelings of pleasure and well-being.

3D couture SKIN CARE

To provide truly individualized skin care, Darphin skin care addresses both "skin type" and "skin condition" which change with age, weather, nutrition, stress and lifestyle choices. Three complementary daily formulas - a Serum, an Aromatic Care and a Cream - are custom selected to address the total dimensions of your skin's needs.

Available at Aurora Spa Retreat from 9th September 2008.

Put Dad's feet up this Fathers Day, Sunday 7th September

Put Dad's feet up this Fathers Day, Sunday 7th September with an Aurora Spa Retreat gift voucher for a ½ hr foot exfoliation and massage, 100% natural Badger foot balm and men's felt scuffs.

$95 (value $145)

Available online at www.aurorasparetreat.com or by phone on 03 9536 1130.

Spa
Shop

Great skin care gifts for Dad

The Phytomer Homme marine-based products are formulated based on the unique characteristics of the male epidermis, combining fast, simple, and effective treatments to ensure instant results. They contain Marine Oxhylium, a seaweed extract rich in calcium and magnesium, two minerals necessary for the vitality and oxygenation of cells.

Phytomer Lift Contour Eye Gel
$68.00 for 100ml

A true anti-aging treatment, this gel emulsion helps to erase and prevent lines and wrinkles. The epidermis is gently smoothed, and the eyes sparkle once again.

Phytomer Rasage Perfect Shaving Mask
$32.00 for 150ml

A 2-in-1 treatment: shaving product and oxygenating treatment which saves time, especially valuable in the morning. Gives you a perfectly smooth shave every day and reduces irritations. Once or twice a week, it can also be used as a moisturizing* and detoxifying mask

* Moisturizes the upper layers of the epidermis. Avoids razor burn through its exceptional moisturising properties.

Phytomer Homme Detoxifying Cleansing Gel
$36.00 for 150ml

This gel cleanses and purifies the epidermis. Its ultra-refreshing formula gently awakens skin while removing impurities. The epidermis is clean and ready for treatment.

The product's astringent formula tightens pores and is perfect for skin with oily or shiny tendencies. After a short night, its fresh fragrance peps up sleepy skin.

The feeling of intense freshness and cleanliness that it gives skin. Its soap-free formula that does not irritate or dry out skin. Its quick and easy application.

Age Maitrise Wrinkles & Firming Cream
$89.00 for 50ml

This cream contains powerful marine-based active ingredients (Energizing Marine Concentrate, Eternelle des Mers, Micro-Algae Peptides, etc.) to actively combat the signs of aging: wrinkles, fine lines, and skin slackening. Its texture, specifically designed for men's skin, is absorbed quickly without leaving a greasy film, for soft, supple skin.

Spa
Comp

Win a one hour Customised Men's Facial

While the interpretation of beauty has varied throughout history, today 'beauty' can be defined simply as applying to someone who is open-hearted, carries a radiant smile and exudes enthusiasm for life. Fine tune your inner being this Spring by giving a complimentary one hour Customised Men's Facial to the man in your life - be it partner, brother, dad or friend.

To enter simply send an email to competition@aurorasparetreat.com letting us know why the 'man' in your life deserves a little pampering on us and we'll put him in the draw to win a one hour customised men's facial. Be sure to include the promotional code ASRSPRING in the subject line of your email along with the name of your 'nominee' , your full name, postal address & contact number.

Prize drawn on Tuesday 30th September

Spa
Guru

The perfect healthy shave

The average man has more than 25,000 hairs as hard as copper wire coming out of his face and spends 3,000 hours in his lifetime shaving them off. Let's face it, whether you're a man or a woman shaving is an invasive and tedious activity. Unfortunately for men it is really the only option for hair removal from the face, with the only alternative being to grow a beard.

The Egyptians were the first to do it - sometimes removing body hair with a clam shell (what is the Egyptian word for ouch?!). But even though men have been shaving for thousands of years, a lot of men are still pretty bad at it. And despite wondrous breakthroughs in shaving technology many guys still go to work with stubble, razor burn and bits of tissue ah-la Norman Gunston hiding their daily shaving wounds.

So how does one best achieve a velvety complexion without spending hours in the bathroom?

Shave in the shower:Shaving should be your final step before leaving the shower. If you prefer to shave over the sink, ensure you shave just as you step out of your shower. The warm moisture of a shower makes hairs soft and plump and opens your pores.

Lubricate: A performance shaving formula should form a slick lubricating cushion to allow shaving blades to glide without scraping. Leave it on your face for a minute before shaving.

A shaving mask is ideal as it provides hydration and moisturises the skin whilst you shave. Another alternative is to use a good quality foaming facial cleanser to double up as your shaving product.

Exfoliate:A good quality exfoliant performed twice a week prior to shaving will help open pores, prime follicles and raise stubs for a closer shave. Exfoliation removes dead skin cells and impurities that can cause acne, ingrown hairs and infection. It will also smooth and renew your complexion. There are generally two types of exfoliant; granular or enzymatic. A granular exfoliant contains micro sized particles to mechanically buff the dead surface skin away. An enzymatic exfoliant is applied to the skin like a mask which contains enzymes that gently dissolve dead surface skin. The latter is the preferred option for a more sensitive skin type as you will avoid the agitation from buffing the skin manually.

Use a sharp blade: Discard shaving blades after four or five uses. Unfortunately, they don't stay sharp enough for more than that. Use gentle strokes; don't put too much pressure on the blade. Soap will dull the blade so ensure that you're only using a specialised face care product to assist your shave.

Avoid irritants: They can damage your skin and create microscopic swelling. Avoid anything that tingles, stings or numbs during or after shaving, when your skin is vulnerable. Stay away from alcohol or strong plant extracts such as menthol, peppermint or citrus. Avoid using cheap and nasty conventional shave creams & gels as most contain harmful and irritating pegs* and parabens** of which affect your skin more readily due to the pores being open.

Post-trauma soothing: Don't skip this step; it is important to calm irritation, balance your skin's moisture content and prevent potential problems such as ingrown hairs or clogged pores. No alcohol! You need proven functional anti-inflammatory and pore-clearing ingredients. Try a light hydrating moisturizer or alcohol free aftershave balm to keep the skin soothed and supple.

For special occasions: Shave in two steps. First, shave with the grain with very light pressure. Second, reapply a coat of shaving cream and shave against the grain for super-close and smooth results.

* Pegs: This is an abbreviation for polyethylene glycol that is used in making cleansers to dissolve oil and grease as well as thicken products. Because of their effectiveness, PEG's are often used in caustic spray-on oven cleaners and yet are found in many personal care products. PEG's contribute to stripping the Natural Moisture Factor, leaving the immune system vulnerable. They are also potentially carcinogenic

** Parabens: are preservatives were developed in the 1930's to stabilize creams. Synthetic Methyl, Ethyl and Propyl Parabens were developed from benzoic acid and were considered effective and economical since they were inexpensive to use as both a cosmetic and food grade preservative. However, recently this preservative system has come into question as these substances have been found in cancerous tissues, especially breast tissue. The greatest concern regarding parabens focuses on their oestrogen mimicking factor in laboratory animals (i.e. their ability to mimic estrogen in the body). More research needs to be done to see if similar exposure on humans produces like findings. Also significant was a study performed by the British Industrial Biological Research Association that recorded the effects of parabens in decreasing testosterone levels and sperm count on the male reproductive system. It is estimated that 99% of all cosmetic and body care products contain some form of paraben preservatives.

Avoiding Ingrown Hairs Ingrown hairs (also called razor bumps) are unsightly and painful. They result when the shaved hair gets trapped inside the follicle or grows back into the skin. It can cause scarring, redness and swelling.

1. Treat with active Ingredients

   • There are several products that claim to help treat ingrown hairs, but the reality is that salicylic acid is the one active substance that can visibly improve razor bumps. It is a dermatological-grade ingredient that exfoliates, moisturizes, clears pores and can help prevent infection. Use a post-shave product with salicylic acid so it remains on your skin the whole day (see below).
   • Use only a non-acnegenic shaving cream specially formulated for sensitive skin, with lots of lubricating agents (foam-based shaving creams can dry and irritate your skin).
   • Do not use any product that has alcohol, it will seriously worsen ingrown hairs by drying the skin and closing the pores.
      

2. Improve your skin's surface

   • Exfoliating is indispensable to manage ingrown hairs.
   • Use a soft-bristle face brush and liquid cleanser in a circular motion on your beard to dislodge the tips of ingrown hairs, eliminate dead skin cells and clear follicles to allow hairs to surface unimpeded.
      

3. Adjusting your shaving technique

   • Shaving too closely is one of the triggers for razor bumps. Hair stubs cut too closely will get trapped inside the hair follicle and dig inward or sideways. Don't worry, the disappearance of unsightly ingrown hairs will more than make up for the "five-o'clock shadow" appearance.
   • To avoid shaving too close, don't pull the skin when you shave; don't put too much pressure on the blades; shave with the grain and use a single-blade razor.
   • You will need to maintain this approach over time, as one extra-close shave will be enough to cause a recurrence of ingrown hairs that will take weeks to heal.
      

4. Treat already ingrown hairs

   • Carefully lift the ingrown end out with tweezers, but don't pluck the hair out; this will only make the hair regrow deeper.
   • Using products that contain azulene, allantoin and witch hazel will help reduce the redness and swelling.

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